Is hyaluronic acid an AHA
Nourishing serum, rich face oil, firming eye cream, anti-aging elixir - layering, the layering of products, is not only a big issue in the fashion sector, but also plays an important role in effective facial care. However, some ingredients can influence each other in their effect in skin layering and should not be combined.
For a complexion par excellence, the beauty world now offers many beautifiers. From toner and essence to serum and face oil, we can choose from a variety of textures, formulations and active ingredients for a wide variety of skin needs. In order for the individual ingredients to have the best possible effect, it depends on a clever sequence!
Step-by-Step Skin Care: The TRT Rule
When it comes to skin layering, the order of the care products is crucial: The so-called TRT rule provides information about which care product is applied first and last:
Toning: Before it is the turn of the right care specialists, the skin and pores are clarified with a facial tonic / toner and prepared for the next care step. Tip: Always apply peelings and masks after the toner!
regeneration: After the skin has been cleared, you start with the less rich, moisturizing products that are tailored to your own skin needs. Facial and eye serums can now optimally penetrate the skin and develop their effect.
Tuning: The layering ends with the richer care products such as day or night creams, anti-aging creams, face oils or sun protection.
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Combine ingredients correctly
The layering of care products is only effective if every step can develop its full effect. If textures do not match, it can happen that the care product becomes crumbly and "rolls" appear. One reason for this is the formulation:
Pay attention to the base
In the beauty routine, it is important to pay attention to whether the products are water or fat soluble. The ingredients of a rich skin care product are mostly fat-soluble, while lighter textures tend to be water-soluble. If you use a cream in the first step and then combine it with a light lotion, the cream dissolves in the lotion and rolls are created.
Fruit acids (AHA) + vitamin C.
Two power ingredients that together make a dream team? Not quite. Alpha-hydroxy acids, also called AHAs, such as glycolic acid or lactic acid are popular active ingredients for chemical peels. Their exfoliating effect refines the complexion, stimulates collagen formation and makes the skin more elastic and even. Vitamin C also has a slightly exfoliating effect and loosens dead skin cells. It also reduces the skin's production of melanin and brightens it. Applied together, however, the fruit acid changes the pH value of the vitamin C products, which can lead to irritation and in the worst case to extreme dryness.
Retinol + AHA / BHA
Opinions differ here. Many claim that chemical peels containing alpha or beta hydroxy acids should not be used with retinol. The reason: the acidity of the peeling is supposed to lower the pH value of the skin and thus prevent the retinol from developing its smoothing and skin rejuvenating power. Behind this line of argument is the assumption that if the pH of the skin is between 5.5 and 6, a certain enzyme in the skin would no longer be able to convert retinol into retinoic acid (a form of vitamin A) - the active form of Retinol. However, there are no detailed studies on this. The skin care experts at Paula's Choice, on the other hand, are in favor of a combination of both substances and want to dispel this unfounded myth. They take as a basis studies that have shown that retinol in combination with an AHA peeling can gently help to reduce hyperpigmentation of the skin and refine the complexion. However, if you react badly to retinol or to AHA / BHA per se, you should refrain from a combination of both substances.
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Skin layering for normal skin
Uncomplicated skin types with normal skin can easily follow the TRT rule: cleansing, alcohol-free toner, serum and eye care. Then either a day / night cream or a special face oil or an anti-aging treatment. At best, BB creams are applied after or instead of the day cream. When everything is well absorbed, foundation, concealer and co. Can be applied.
Skin layering for combination skin, blemished skin
These skin types tend to have an oily sheen, enlarged pores and pimples in the T-zone. The skin-layering care products should have an oil-free and regulating effect. This keeps the complexion clear and absorbs the oily sheen.
STEP 1: After a light cleansing gel, the skin is cleared with a mild toner. Toner with salicylic acid or tea tree oil refine the pores, reduce inflammation and mattify the skin. STEP 2: The rather oily skin should forego a too rich serum and use light textures that work according to the skin type. Instead, intensive care should only be applied 2-3 a week. STEP 3: Light, moisturizing consistencies finish. Oil-free products with salicylic acid keep sebum production in check and prevent unwanted oil sheen.
Skin layering for dry skin
Dry skin generally needs plenty of moisture, especially in the cold months. Dry heating air and the change between warm and cold make the diva of the skin types particularly difficult. Stressed skin needs active ingredients that penetrate deep into the skin and keep it supple. Natural oils such as jojoba oil, rosehip oil or coconut oil as well as urea and hyaluronic acid are true care experts for dry skin.
STEP 1: After the cleansing cream or milk, an alcohol-free facial tonic is used to give the skin additional moisture. STEP 2: Moisture must be returned to dry skin. Face and eye serums with hyaluronic acid replenish the skin's moisture stores and keep it supple and plump for a long time. STEP 3: This is followed by a rich day / night care, intensive facial oils or overnight masks.
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Cover picture: Magone on iStock
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